Basque ethnography at a glance

Photo credit: Akaitze Kamiruaga. Labayru Fundazioa Photographic Archive.

I know many of you can’t hide your disgust when you see snails. And others of you will be drooling as soon as you see the dish. Well, I should point out to everyone that snails are a great source of protein; an ideal food, as they help build muscles.

Snails were also widely used as a cure throughout Euskal Herria. For example, snail slime mixed with sugar was sometimes taken to cure whooping cough. The slime was also used to make ointments, as its constituents are very good for the skin.

There’s a week to go until Christmas Eve; and my aunt, just like every year, will prepare snails, the dish that has pride of place at Christmas. In fact, there has not been a Christmas without snails at the Aldana farmstead in Amorebieta. Neither at Aldana or the surrounding homes. This has been a very treasured and typical dish at this time of year and has been passed down from generation to generation.

Photo credit: Akaitze Kamiruaga. Labayru Fundazioa Photographic Archive.

We usually start to collect snails after St. Michael’s Day. Each year, our search takes us through dark and damp places, as they often hide from the cold in the nooks and crannies of the farmsteads, under stones or in gaps in the ground and in hollow trees.

Once the snails have been collected, they are put in a bag with ventilation so they can breathe and it is hung in the barn or in the attic. A twig with bay leaves is usually put in the bag, as it helps to keep them dry. Lettuce or bran is used in other places. In short, the aim is to keep them in the best possible condition until the day they are to be eaten.

The cleaning process is the most complicated part of preparing the snails and great care has to be taken. The snails are cleaned thoroughly using plenty of water, salt and vinegar. Each step needs to be repeated more than once to completely remove the slime. The snails are first left to soak in a bucket full of water and salt; and the water is changed as often as needed. Then, each snail is cleaned in warm water to remove any dirt from the shell. The snails are then put in water and salt again; this operation is repeated two or three times. Finally, they are washed in water and vinegar. Once clean, the snails are boiled so keep them in perfect condition.

Snails can be prepared in different ways. At home, for example, they are first boiled with different types of vegetables to add flavour. We then make a vizcaina sauce with choricero peppers and onion. And finally, the snails are placed in a pan with different fried pork products –pork belly, loin and chorizo sausage– and then the sauce is added. All the ingredients are mixed well together.

Of course, this hearty dish is high in calories, but eating it twice a year is not going to do anybody any harm. So, forget your qualms and tuck in, because it is good for your body and soul.

Ziortza Artabe Etxebarria

Herri Ondare Department – Labayru Fundazioa