Basque ethnography at a glance

Source: Labayru Fundazioa Photography Archive.

Odoloste and buzkantz are the two usual words for black pudding in Basque. Yet, what is the difference between them?

Odolostea is the black pudding made with the small intestine of the pig, while buzkantza is the one made using the large intestine and which is known as murtzillea in the western part of Bizkaia. However, no distinction is made in many places and buzkentza, odolostea or mortzillea are interchangeably used for both types of black pudding.

In addition to the above terms, the Euskal Herria Linguistic Atlas by Euskaltzaindia includes odolkia from the midlands to the east and in Navarre, and its version odolgia in Iparralde [northern Basque Country in France]. And tripota in the eastern area and some parts of Navarre.

Lopea, lopetoa, aita lopea or Jainkoa are different ways to refer to what is known as blood sausage; it is also called mondongoa in Navarre and in the eastern versions. In Navarre, when the pig was slaughtered, the women who came to help to make the black puddings were called mondongueras. That, for example, was the case in Aniz.

A century ago, José Miguel de Barandiaran came across the following explanation in Azpeitia: “There are three types of blacking pudding: thin and circular ones called odolostia; straight and rather thicker ones called mortzilla, and very thick ones known as jangizon or jaungoikua (G-azp)” (AnEuskFolk 1928, 18).

As regards the making of black puddings, the Linguistic Atlas recorded the following in two places of Bizkaia. In Berriz: “odola, kipulie, porrue, lorengainue…, arroza be bai. Pikantie be eitten dotzie batzuk… Odol gustue kendu eitten dotzala…” (Blood, onion, leek, oregano… and a bit of rice. Some people add spice to hide the taste of blood). In Ondarroa: “gatza pixkat, eta porru ta kipula pixkat. Guk emen oraganu be bai. Ereiñotzik ez. Da gero kordak ein da gero, zumiaz eiñ txibistiñe lez, da gero galdara kobrezkuen antxe egosi, ta gero ese(g)i”. (A pinch of salt, leeks and onion. We also here add a little oregano, but not bay. And after the mixture is put in the intestines, they are tied with wicker, boiled in a copper pot and then hung).

Odolosteak ordeaz, or in its eastern version, Odolkiak ordainetan, is a very common saying that means that black puddings are given in compensation, that it is in return for an exchange that takes place. The family who slaughtered the pig usually gave some of the black puddings made to its neighbours. Once filled, the puddings were tied with wicker and hung from the roof of the kitchen or from the shed to dry, out of the reach of rodents and cats. They were then given to the closest neighbours.

When we were children, we used to take black puddings to the teacher and the priest, wrapped in a cabbage leaf.

The word txarriboda has become fashionable in Bilbao and in the large cities, and taken over from what is known as txarri-hiltzea (pig slaughter) in the towns. It is a compound word with boda (wedding), which is closer linked to the wedding feast, to refer to the celebration held after the slaughter.

Adolfo Arejita — Euskaltzaina