Basque ethnography at a glance

St Christopher’s Day in Busturia (Bizkaia), 2019. Labayru Fundazioa Photographic Archive.

Saint Christopher is the patron saint of truckers and drivers in general, and his feast day is celebrated on 10 July. But what is the connection between them and the saint?

There is a very well-known legend, which Gurutzi Arregi was told by Balbina Arrese, whom she interviewed in Busturia, and which she recorded in her book entitled Ermitas de Bizkaia [Hermitages of Bizkaia]; other people from the same locality told us the same legend more recently in 2022. The legend is also widely shared around the world:

The legend goes that saint Christopher was a giant who spent his time helping people cross rivers, back in the time when there were no bridges. Once a small, but very heavy child wanted to cross the river. Christopher told him: “Not even the whole world is heavier than you”. To which the child responded: “You are not only carrying the world, but its creator. I am Jesus Christ, whom you are serving through your work”.

The name Christopher comes from the Greek Christophoros, which means ‘he who carries Christ’. He was the patron saint of the muleteers, then of truckers, and now of all drivers.

An image of the saint was usually found at the city gates and the traveller would be protected for the whole journey merely by looking at him. The custom of having the saint’s image in the vehicle then spread among professional drivers. The saint is depicted holding the Christ Child in his arms and with a tree or palm as a walking stick. The Christ Child usually holds a globe in his hand.

Bless this vehicle. Labayru Fundazioa Photographic Archive.

Since the mid-20th century, drivers have celebrated their patron’s saint day and have established associations or brotherhoods of drivers, taxi drivers, truckers, etc. The celebrations have typically included pilgrimages, processions and meals, along with decorating the vehicles with flowers. Processions of cars, decorated for the occasion and sounding their horns, even make their way through Bermeo, Busturia, Bermeo, and elsewhere in Bizkaia.

Newly bought cars are blessed after the mass in the neighbourhood of Aldaiegia in Bergara, within the territory of Gipuzkoa. In fact, the neighbourhood’s shrine bears the following inscription: San Kristobal. Belarriko minaren kontrako eta txoferren zaindaria ‘St Christopher. Protector against deafness and patron saint of drivers’.

Saint Christopher is one of the healing saints, in his case of deafness. In her above-cited work, Gurutzi Arregi refers to the tradition of folks turning to this saint to request his intervention for the cure of earache. In such circumstances, it was usual to apply to the ears oil blessed on his saint’s day. This practice was recorded in chapels dedicated to St Christopher in Forua, Nabarniz, Busturia, Munitibar and Igorre, all five in Bizkaia.

 

Igone Etxebarria – Labayru Fundazioa

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